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After riding from Deadhorse, AK, to Whitefish, MT, in 2022, this year I turned my attention to the American Southwest. In the course of a month and a half, I traveled in Arizona and Utah, stopping along the way in Flagstaff, at Grand and Bryce Canyons, and at Zion National Park. If I had stopped right there, it would have been an excellent summer bike-packing adventure.
But alas, I ignored advice and crossed Nevada and California's Mojave Desert in order to ride north through the Sierras and Cascades. Crossing the desert in June was not fun, to put it mildly, even if I did take an unexpected day off in Las Vegas. Once in California, I climbed into the Sierras and breathed a cool sigh of relief that lasted for exactly one day until I ran into my first road closure. The snowfalls of the previous winter had washed out many mountain roads, and some of the high country was still snowbound. I made it ultimately to Yosemite Valley, but with the Yosemite High Country still closed, I abandoned my plans to ride all the way to Oregon and instead boarded the California Zephyr train for the trip back east.
That said, I changed my mind again once I arrived in Maine. I decided I wasn't quite done. Why not continue my Bike Around Maine (BAM) ride of 2020? And so I did, going up Maine's Downeast Bold Coast to New Brunswick's Campobello Island before turning for home.
Thus this 2023 bike-packing adventure did not have the magnitude or drama of earlier trips. but all-in-all, it was a very satisfying way to spend the summer.
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Slideshow
A
slideshow
of photos from my Tucson through Flagstaff, AZ, can be found at
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EgLs9gyGCmay9LnR8
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Missive No. 1: The Search for Planet X
So where did I get this name for my new bike-packing adventure with WoodsWoman? I chose it mainly because it has a sweet sound and brings to mind a fresh breeze. It also happens to be the name of one of the most famous trains in the U.S. in the middle of the twentieth century. As many of you know, I love to travel by train.
But for now I'm in Arizona. I started out on May 2 after our family reunion at my sister's in Tucson. It took me three days to get from Tucson to Phoenix. Unlike in Alaska last year, this was a flat ride, something that I was happy for given that I had spent almost all of April immobile at the computer. These three days gave me a chance to restore my former physical condition. But on the other hand, was it ever hot. After all, this is desert with cactus.
I spent my first night camped at Picacho Peak State Park, and the second night I spent with Richard and Karen from our bicycling WarmShowers community. Instead of a tent, I slept in a soft bed, and instead of my own food, I enjoyed a wonderful dinner prepared by Richard. Both Richard and Karen are in their 80s and are still riding their bicycles.
In Phoenix I spent a day with my sister Chris before continuing northward. The hills began almost immediately. In the course of the following five days, I climbed more than 2000m (~6000ft). It was good that I had those first three days from Tucson to Phoenix to get back in shape. I left the desert behind and am now in Flagstaff, surrounded by mountains and evergreen forests. There is still snow on the some of those peaks. I'm taking two rest days here.
From Phoenix to Flagstaff I stayed at campgrounds, in one cheap motel, and in one AirBnB. This last came as a big surprise in that I had reserved a camping spot. When I arrived, however, the proprietors Michael and Tammy wouldn't hear of me spending the night in my tent and instead put me in their little shipping-container AirBnB.
Another remarkable episode unfolded in the village of People's Choice where I stopped at a convenience store for breakfast. Just as I got off the bike, Frank came over and, after a short conversation about my travel, insisted on buying me breakfast. Over the course of breakfast, Frank introduced me to almost everyone who came into the store. It seemed he knows everyone in this village. Instead of a quick breakfast, I stayed for over two hours. And I'm happy I did. These chance meetings are one of the joys of traveling by bicycle.
So why did I decide to spend my first off days in Flagstaff? Because Lowell Observatory is here. The thing is, when I was eleven years old, I read the book The Search for Planet X about the 1930 discovery of Pluto by the young astronomer -- in truth still an amateur astronomer -- Clyde Tombaugh. This story inspired me and put me on the path to my first career. I never did become a professional astronomer, but I sent twenty-five years with a NASA contractor, most of that in the Hubble Space Telescope project. I also became a historian of astronomy and spent years researching the fate of Soviet astronomers during the Great Terror of 1936-37. Without that book, without the story of Clyde Tombaugh, none of that would have happened in my life. I visited the observatory yesterday. Better to say that I went on a pilgrimage. For me it was an emotional experience to stand next to the astrograph where the young Clyde Tombaugh spent many a long night in 1930. For me in my life, this isn't an observatory but, rather, a shrine that gave me one of the most important directions in my life.
I'll continue on my way tomorrow. My next stop after several days will be at the Grand Canyon. I'll be in touch as conditions allow.
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Откуда я выбрала такое название очередного похода на ЛесНице? Главным образом, потому что название красивое и напоминает о свежем ветре. Это
тоже название одного из самых знаменитых поездов в США в середине 20-го века: Калифорнийский ветерок [California Zephyr]. Как многие знают, я люблю путешествовать в поездах.
Но пока я в штате Аризоне. Я тронулась в путь 2-го мая после нашего сбора всей семьи у сестры в городе Тусон. Потребовалось три дня поехать из Тусона в город Феникс. В отличие от похода в Аляске в прошлом году, это ровное место, и я радовалась этому в связи с тем, что я сидела почти неподвижно у компьютера в течение всего апреля. Эти три дня дали мне возможность вернуть прежнюю физическую форму. Но зато было очень жарко. Ведь это пустыня где растут кактусы!
Первую ночь я провела на кемпинге в парке Пикачо, а вторую у пары Ричард и Карен из нашего велосипедного сообщество "Тёплые души" [WarmShowers]. Вместо палатки, я спала в мягкой кровати, а вместо собственной пищи для кемпинга, я наслаждалась вкусным ужином, приготовленным Ричардом. И Ричарду и Карену за 80, а они ещё катаются на своих велосипедах.
В Фениксе я провела день с сестрой Кристин прежде чем продолжать путь на север. Подъёмы начались почти сразу. В течение следующих пяти дней я поднялась больше 2000м. Хорошо, что я воспользовалась первыми тремя днями из Тусона в Феникс, чтобы вернуть себе тонус! Я оставила пустыню позади и сейчас нахожусь в городе Флагстафф. Вокруг ёлочные леса и горы, а на вершинах самых высоких ещё лежит снег. Я здесь отдыхаю два дня.
По пути сюда из Феникса я жила на кемпингах, в одной дешёвой гостинице, и в одном AirBnB. Последнее было для меня сюрпризом, потому что я
забронировала место для палатки. Когда доехала, хозяева Майкл и Тамми не хотели, чтобы я провела ночь в палатке и вместо места для кемпинга дали мне их крошечный контейнер AirBnB.
Ещё замечательный эпизод был в н.п. "Выбор народов" где я остановилась у минимаркета где собиралась позавтракать. Как только я слезла с велика, ко мне подошёл Франк. После короткого разговора а моём походе, он настаивал угостить меня завтраком. В течение завтрака он познакомил меня почти со всеми, которые зашли в минимаркет, Кажется, он лично знает всех в этом н.п. Вместо быстрого завтрака, я провела за столом больше двух часов и очень рада этому. Ведь такие случайные знакомства, это радость похода на велике.
А почему я решила провести первые выходные дни в городе Флагстафф? Потому что здесь находится Обсерватория им. Лоуэлла. Дело в том, что когда мне было одиннадцать лет, я прочитала книгу Поиск планеты X об открытии планеты Плутон в 1930-ом г. молодым астрономом -- скорее всего ещё любителем -- Клайдом Томбаугом. Это история вдохновила меня и поставила меня на путь к первой карьере. Я не стала профессиональном астрономом, но я провела лет двадцать пять инженером в космической программе, главным образом в проекте Космического телескопа им. Хаббла. Я тоже стала историком астрономии и долгое время исследовала судьбу советских астрономов во время великого террора в 1936-37. Если не это книга, если не история молодого Клайда Томбауга, ничего этого не стало бы в моей жизни. Я посетила обсерваторию вчера. Скорее, это было паломничество, святое дело. Повышенные были у меня эмоции, когда я стояла рядом с астрографом, где дежурил по ночам молодой Клайд Томбауг в 1930-ом году. В моей жизни это не обсерватория а храм, который дал мне один из важнейших толчков в жизни.
Завтра поеду дальше. Следующая остановка у Гранда каньона через несколько дней. Буду на связи как обстановка позволяет.
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Daily Log
Starting odometer reading: 6874 km
Tuesday, May 2, 2023 -- 6973 km cum - 99 km/day
This was a good 60+ mile first day just shy of a metric century on a route that was flat almost all the way. The exception came at the end, a steep climb into Picacho State Park for a night of camping. It's good that the way was flat given how out of shape I am. Still, it felt good to be on two wheels again for my fifth summer adventure in five years. The "California Zephyr" summer has begun! Forward!
Wednesday, May 3, 2023 -- 7062 km cum - 89 km/day
This was a good 55-mile day despite a headwind to a WarmShowers night in Maricopa. Dick and Karen are retired school music teachers. Now in their 80s, they continue to cycle. They prepared a wonderful spaghetti dinner, and the evening was taken up with good conversation. I'm in their guest bedroom. Karen and Dick are now in my pantheon of WS hosts.
Thursday, May 4, 2023 -- 7157 km cum - 95 km/day
I'm in Phoenix, and that means that the shakedown phase of this trip is complete! I'm staying in a "cheaper motel" for two nights and will spend tomorrow with my sister Chris. I actually stopped at her house first and enjoyed some refreshing watermelon before continuing on to the motel.
This initial "get-in-shape" phase went remarkably well considering how out-of-shape I am this year. These were good ride days, but the real test will come when I head north from Phoenix. That's where the hills will start.
Saturday, May 6, 2023 -- 7260 km cum - 103 km/day
This was my first 100+ km day complete with my first hills and a headwind much of the way. I'm just outside Wickenburg for the night.
And here's the surprise of the day. The two campgrounds in town do not allow tenting, and the one WS host never responded. I really didn't want to stay in a motel after two motel nights in Phoenix. I thought I might wild camp on state land, but I was loathe to camp in the desert without water.
As a last ditch thought, I tried AirBnB. That's where I found Tammy and Michael who had an empty spot for an RV. I reserved it, and Tammy called to ask what size RV I was driving. I explained that I am traveling by bicycle and carry a tent. She was surprised but agreed to let me use the RV spot.
When I got to Wickenburg, Tammy drove to the end of her driveway to guide me in. Then came the surprise. She wouldn't hear of me camping. Instead, she led me to a guest bunkhouse with a bed, AC, shower, and refrigerator. I'm in the unexpected lap of luxury! Trail magic -- the first for this year -- strikes again!
Sunday, May 7, 2023 -- 7306 km cum - 46 km/day
This was a short day by design because it involved a 3000 foot climb. Most of that was in the final five miles from Congress to Yarnell. I took it slowly. I did feel a twinge of a cramp in my right leg near the end, but it was only a twinge. (Note to self to drink more sport drinks for electrolytes.) I'm pretty pleased. I am close to having ridden myself back into shape.
It's a cheap $50 motel night for me at the Oak Park Motel and RV Park in Yarnell. I had expected to camp, but there is no water here for campers. So much for that. The motel room comes with water, albeit cold water only.
I just ordered a personal pizza as I enjoy an IPA at "Gilligan's." I'm sitting at a table in the sun for warmth. In the shade it's almost chilly. That's what the extra altitude does!
Monday, May 8, 2023 -- 7383 km cum - 77 km/day
More climbing today, but I was able to peddle all the way. I reached 6100 feet just before Prescott and am camped tonight at a commercial campground about 10-12 miles byond Prescott.
The highlight of the day came at the very beginning. I stopped for breakfast at the convenience store in Peoples Valley. Almost as soon as I stopped, up came Frank. He immediately introduced me by phone to his friend Richard in Texas. Frank then treated me to breakfast and introduced me to Chris and almost everyone else who came through the door. Instead of a quick breakfast, I spent over two and a half delightful hours in Peoples Valley.
Tuesday, May 9, 2023 -- 7460 km cum - 77 km/day
С Днём Победы? In view of what Russia has done and has become, it's hard to give this greeting anymore.
This was another day in which I traveled less than 50 miles. I'm camped in Ash Fork tonight. When I camp, it's almost always going to be a short mileage day. Camping involves that much time overhead, or at least it does given the way I camp. If I hadn't camped last night, I might have made it the extra twenty miles to Williams. In Ash Fork I nearly opted for a $59 motel room, but with a tent space costing only $20.84, camping makes sense. In any case, why am I carrying all the camping gear?
Wednesday, May 10, 2023 -- 7544 km cum - 84 km/day
This was a long day entirely on I-40 / Rt. 66 from Ash Fork to Flagstaff. The first 20+ miles to Williams were a long uphill slog. I crossed the "Arizona Divide" at 7355 feet where it was chilly with a temperature above 10C. I wore my jacket the entire way. What a contrast this is to the heat of the Tucson-Phoenix ride last week!
My bad news for the day is that my Big Agnes mattress has sprung a leak. I woke at 4 a.m. with my rear end touching the ground. I reinflated the mattress, but by 8 a.m. it was soft again. It seems the better choice yesterday would have been the cheap motel. I've ordered a replacement that will cost me some $130. It will be delivered to Flagstaff.
But indeed I'm in Flagstaff! I checked into a Super 8 motel for three nights. My first rest break after 418 miles on the road has arrived!
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