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Slideshow
A slideshow of photos from Colorado can be found at https://photos.app.goo.gl/d9PXchTT4rMUoiu39 .
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Missive No. 7: Rocky Mountain High
I found myself humming and singing that classic John Denver song much of last week. Well, to be precise, I hummed and sang when not huffing and puffing uphill.
The climbing started as soon as I finished my last day off in Pueblo, CO, where I got to see my nephew and his two children. (They live in Colorado Springs.) The uphill from Pueblo to Canon City was mild, but already the weather was changing with altitude. Although storms greeted me as I reached Canon City, I could sense the air was drier. As the rain continued, I spent the night in the dormitory of what used to be a private school on the grounds of a now defunct Benedictine abbey. A number of summer interns with the Bureau of Land Management were staying there as well, and I ended up as part of their cookout and conversation late into the evening.
I got an early start the next morning for what I knew would be all-day climb to Guffey with more storms predicted for the afternoon. I had called ahead to the hostel to make sure I could stay for the night, but I was nevertheless surprised when, with about six miles to go, a vehicle going the other way slowed down. The woman at the wheel was Cindy. Bill, who has managed the hostel since 1976, feared I would get caught in the storms and had sent Cindy to intercept me.
The hostel in Guffey is unforgettable. Primitive with no running water, it was also one of the most enjoyable places I have stayed on this trip. The bunkhouse is the old assayer's office from gold rush days. It brought back good memories of Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC) cabins I have rented through the years. Bill's garage is not so much a garage as a museum timepiece that combines a Colorado past with a more recent 1960s summer of love. The same could be said of the entire small town. The mayor of Guffey is a cat. I'm not kidding.
The next day's riding from Guffee was to die for, one gorgeous alpine meadow or mountain view after another, a true Rocky Mountain high. I arrived in Fairplay just as the town festival in honor of Prunes the Donkey was ending.
I knew the ride from Fairplay through Alma to Breckinridge would be one of the most difficult yet. The route passes over the Continental Divide at Hoosier Pass, which at 11,500 (~3700 meters) is higher than I had ever been. I was not disappointed as to difficulty, but the issue was not so much the steep grade as it was the heavy, 65mph traffic on a two lane road with no shoulder. Going uphill at best at 5-6mph, I soon decided I would be better off pushing Woodswoman uphill at 3-4mph on the dirt track beside the road. This Effective Cyclist who says she's ready to ride on any road finally threw in the towel. I kept thinking how in eastern states this mountain road would have had a speed limit of 35mph with occasional speed humps. Coming down the other side of the pass to Breckinridge was quite another matter. Going 25mph or more, I fully took the lane, stopping from time to time to let my rims cool.
Breckinridge is a ski resort town that is just as popular in the summer as in winter. Although beautiful, it has resort prices and was therefore just a lunch stop. I continued on to a USFS campground on Dillon Reservoir just beyond Frisco for a primitive camping night.
Beyond Silverthorne the views change from alpine to arid as one loses altitude, but scenic views return beyond Hot Sulphur Springs. The route here passes through two national forests and a second crossing of the Continental Divide at Willow Creek Pass on a road with little traffic. A major fire happened here last October, and the evidence is still everywhere to be seen. A fire must have been in progress somewhere nearby as I rode through, as I watched helicopters carrying water bladders cross the ridge and return with their bladders empty.
I spent my last night in Colorado camped at the city park in Walden together with Blaise and Tom. Blaise is riding the TransAm W-E, and Tom is riding his own route. The next morning I crossed into Wyoming for the first time in my life and spent the night at the St. Barnabas Episcopal Church in Saratoga. I am writing this on my rest day in Rawlins, WY, where I just went to a Lions Club pancake breakfast and watched the parade opening the Carbon County fair. I've earned a day of rest.
And now for some news about my occasional bicycling companions. Cathy and Richard took a break for the birth of their granddaughter but are preparing to resume their trip from where they left off in Kansas. Devin and Sarah are about three days ahead of me now (youth!) but keep sending me intelligence on what to expect further down the road. Amanda and her brother Addison are even further ahead than that.
In addition to Blaise and Tom, this week I met Cristina and Anya, a mother-daughter pair who are riding W-E. Along the road from Guffey I met Monte Lowrence, author of Wide Hips, Narrow Shoulders about his bike-packing journey through all 48 lower U.S. states. Later, during a snack break, I met a 71-year-old cyclist who has bike-packed in Africa and all the way to the southern tip of South America. (Ron and Ellen: Made me think of you.) My travels along the TransAm and the Northern Tier are tame by comparison.
How much of the TransAm still lies ahead of me? I haven't totalled things up officially, but I think I have about 1700 miles to go.
That's my news for this missive. It has been a wonderful week of riding through gorgeous country with kind, helpful people. The heat and humidity of Kansas are but a memory, and Wyoming now beckons me onward.
And if anyone reading this does not know that John Denver song, here you go: https://youtu.be/eOB4VdlkzO4
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Daily Log
Monday, June 19, 2021 -- 18,668 km cum - 174 km/day
106 miles from Scott City, KS, to Eads, CO. I'm in Colorado and the Mountain Time zone. Moreover, in Eads there is a sign proclaiming the mid-point of the TransAm. I am officially halfway between Yortown, VA, and Astoria, OR.
I hadn't intended to go so far or so long today. I had expected to go only 78 miles to Sheridan Lakes, KS. What happened was Devin Leadbetter and his friend Sarah. They caught up with me when I stopped to talk with an eastbound cyclist near Leoti. Like Amanda and her brother whom I met in Missouri, they are on a tight schedule to complete the TransAm before the end of August. As young people, they have school and work commitments. They had also left from Scott City this morning and were intent on a long day. They inspired me to push on. We cycled together most of the day and are together for a motel night in Eads where there is, finally, good beer. We just had a good evening together at the motel lounge and snack bar.
Overall, this was a long but wonderful record-setting day!
Tuesday, July 20, 2021 -- 18,772 km cum - 104 km/day
A good 65 mile ride from Eads to Ordway, but I miss Sarah and Devin. We had breakfast together, but then they were off, intent on making it all the way to Pueblo. After yesterday, my goal for today was more modest.
I am camped tonight at the city park in Ordway. Conditions are primitive -- i.e., port-a-potty and cold water from a spigot. Tomorrow I will go in the opposite direction and choose luxury in Pueblo.
Wednesday, July 21, 2021 -- 18,857 km cum - 85 km/day
I'm in Pueblo after an easy 53 mile ride from Ordway. Today's highlight was a stop in Olney Springs where I met the mayor and a local artist, one of them Arapaho and the other Iroquois, transplants to here from Ohio and Pennsylvania. I was quite impressed by the artist.
I arrived in Pueblo by 1:30 p.m. I stopped first at the local bike shop to give Woodswoman a quick go-over before I go further. All, thankfully, is in order. Janet fixed the weird way in which the bike shop in Maryland installed the rear fender.
I also went to the post office. The box of supplies from Ellen and Ron was waiting for me.
I checked in at the Marriott and am now at an Irish pub. 36 hours of luxury and bliss!
Friday, July 23, 2021 -- 18,940 km cum - 83 km/day
Just a 52 mile day, but this was my first climbing day since Missouri. The 30+ miles from Pueblo to Wetmore were largely uphill. I experienced again the optical illusion I remember from last year. At times I wonder why I am going so slowly on what seems to be flat or downhill terrain when, in fact, I am on an uphill incline.
I drank most of my water and Gatorade by the time I reached Wetmore. With no convenience store in town, I stopped at the post office for water. Fortunately the route was largely downhill after that from Wetmore to Florence.
It started to shower while I was at the convenience store in Florence. I abandoned camping thoughts and am instead at what was once the Holy Cross Academy in Canon City. It feels right to be here. It used to be a Benedictine Abbey and private school. I'm in a dorm room for $40. That's pricey compared with most hostels, but oh well. I'm out of the rain.
There are a number of young interns from the Bureau of Land Management who are staying here also. I had a good time in the evening talking about Russian history and nuclear issues with Joshua and David.
All-in-all, this was a good day!
Saturday, July 24, 2021 -- 18,985 km cum - 45 km/day
This was an unexpectedly short, 28-mile day. It should have been 34-35 miles, but Bill, who runs the bike hostel in Guffey, was worried I would be caught in storms and sent out his friend Cindy to intercept me when I was still 6-7 miles from town. I wasn't going to say no to these good people who had gone out of their way in their concern for me. (FWIW, I think I would have made it under my own power before any rain started.)
I will admit it was quite a climbing day. Canon City is at about 5500 feet. Guffey is at 8500.
The hostel and Bill himself are the epitome of hippie eclectic. No showers or running water here. Guffey itself was once a gold town. The hostel is in what had been the assayer's office at one time. The mayor is a cat! (I'm not kidding!)
Sunday, July 25, 2021 -- 19,061 km cum - 76 km/day
A wonderful day. Slept beautifully in the bunkhouse at the Guffey hostel and was up at 5:00 a.m. Made coffee on my camp stove and had a breakfast of cereal, fruit, and hard boiled eggs.
I rode out of Guffey at about 8:30 a.m. There was still some climbing to do to reach Current Creek Pass, but it was nothing like yesterday. From there the ride was more down than up all the way to Hartsel with gorgeous alpine views all along the way. Some six miles from Hartsel I met Monte Lawrence from Fairplay who bike-packed through all 50 U.S. states. (NOTE: Later read his book Wide Hips and Narrow Shoulders about his experiences.)
Took a snack break in Hartsel and then continued on to Fairplay. That part of today's ride was not nearly as pleasant. The traffic is heavier on a 65 mph road with no shoulder, just the conditions that cyclists love.
I arrived in Fairplay at about 2:30 p.m. and checked into the Western Inn, the town's cheap motel at $120/night.
I walked around town in the later afternoon while talking with John by phone. Fairplay is largely a touristy restoration of a western town, but it has character. This weekend was the annual Burro Days celebration of Prunes the Burro, the town legend.
On to Hoosier Pass tomorrow!
Monday, July 26, 2021 -- 19,123 km cum - 62 km/Days
This was a short 39-mile day by design because of Hoosier Pass, but it was still longer than the 22 miles recommended by the TransAm handlebar guide. I **did** push Woodswoman 4 miles on the climb up to Hoosier Pass, but I have no regrets. The issue was not the grade. Rather, riding 4-5 miles/hour in a traffic lane with heavy 65-70 mph trucks and RVs is more than even this committed effective cyclist is willing to endure. Better to walk along the edge or on the dirt shoulder at 3-4 mph and enjoy the spectacular views.
Coming down the other side wasn't as bad on the brakes and rims as I had expected. I stopped and rested only 3-4 times. I was in Breckenridge by 12:30 p.m. and decided I could go further.
I am camped tonight at the Hawthorne USFS campground near Silverthorne. It's a primitive campground, but the price was right at $13. This is a resort/tourist area, and even the cheap motels are over $100/night. I'll alternate every few days so that I can do laundry and become human.
All in all, this was a very good day!
Tuesday, July 27, 2021 -- 19,220 km cum - 105 km/day
As usual, I got a late post-camping-night start, but nevertheless this was a good 65-mile day to the Canyon Motel in Hot Sulphur Springs. Along the way I met Chris and Anya, a mother-daughter pair who are riding the TransAm W-E. Later, in Heney, I shared a snack break with Tim, a 70+ year old cyclist who is improvising his own route. Like Ron Enders, he seems to have bike-packed everywhere, including in Africa and all the way to the tip of South America. Makes me feel like a rank beginner.
The terrain has changed from the Alpine of the past few days to more arid with sparse vegetation. Still, the views are beautiful.
Wednesday, July 28, 2021 -- 19,331 km cum - 103 km/day
A good 60+ mile day up and over Willow Creek Pass. At 9600 feet, it was a much easier climb than Hoosier because it was on a road with little traffic. Wonderful! And then it was largely downhill the rest of the day.
Much of the morning's ride was in Arapaho National Forest, which experienced one of the big western fires last October. The hills are covered with burned tree skeletons. I think there must have been fire activity somewhere even today, as I watched a helicopter carry a water bladder over a ridge several times and return with it empty.
I am camped tonight at the city park in Waldon. Tim, a TransAm sectional rider, and Blaze, a W-E rider, are camped here also. For $5 I had a nice shower at the city pool.
A good day! Wyoming tomorrow :) .
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