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Slideshow
A slideshow of photos from my ride from Kitwanga, BC, to Jasper, AB, can be found at https://photos.app.goo.gl/4J7a4tD55SMpzg8d8.
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Missive No. 7: Alberta Bound
I have arrived in Jasper, AB, after a week and a half riding east and south on
Canada's Yellowhead Highway, aka Highway 16 or the Trans-Canada Highway. Let
me start by complaining that this is my least favorite road this summer. Why?
Heavy traffic on a two-lane, 100 km/hour road with long sections of deficient
shoulder or no shoulder at all does not make for pleasant riding. That
traffic includes a large number of logging trucks. I am more than just a
little happy that the Trans-Canada Highway is now in my rear view mirror.
Well, OK, let me soften that to complaining about just the section between
Houston and Fraser Lake. That was the worst of it. After Prince George the
shoulder is better and traffic is less. Also, crossing the Rockies at
Yellowhead Pass is less nerve wracking than the crossing through Marias Pass
on U.S. 2 in Montana. Traffic was again heavy there, but the road and
shoulder are excellent. Camping with views of Mt. Robson, Canada's highest
peak in the Rockies, is another highlight I will long remember from this
summer.
There were perks to riding on Highway 16. In addition to cell signal and
towns with food stores, I enjoyed my first two Warm Shower nights, first with
Judy and her family in Telkwa and, three nights later, with Jolinka and John
near Vanderhoof. Nights with WS hosts are one of the nicest perks of
long-distance bike-packing. Good food, excellent conversation, and a warm bed
-- not to mention a warm shower -- make for a good night.
I also had a good, free night at the municipal campground in Fraser Lake where
I met Stephanie, a young woman who took an eight month leave of absence from
her job in Vermont to drive and tent her way around North America. We
splurged together that evening at a Mexican restaurant in town.
At the Slim River rest stop between Prince George and McBride, we had a
veritable bike-packers convention. Camped with me that night were Becca and
Rob from the UK. When we awoke in the morning, we found that Ian had joined
us during the night as he rides from Florida to Deadhorse. Add to this a
second Ian who was traveling in his van and who made french toast for all of
us in the morning. Bike-packing doesn't get much better than this.
I should also mention John and Lisa at the B&B where I stayed in Burns Lake.
It turns out that Lisa is herself a bike-packer who has completed many long
distance trips.
Having ridden 573 miles since turning on to Yellowhead Highway, I'm rounding
upward and donating $60 in support of independent Russian journalists at TV
Dozhd'. Please consider joining me in this support to a talented, brave crew
of journalists who continue to report uncensored news in the Russian language.
You will find a donation links at https://tvrain.tv/donate-en/. Thank you to all who have joined me in supporting Dozhd'!
How much longer do I have on the road? I estimate 400 miles to go to
Whitefish, MT. With a few rest days thrown in, I believe I will be there in
about two weeks. My journey is not over, but the end is within sight.
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Daily Log
Saturday, August 13, 2022 -- 3576 km cum - 49 km/day
A short 30-mile day by design in light rain to the 28 Inn in Hazelton. My birthday rest break has arrived. Last year I was in Missoula, MT. Two years ago I was in Sandpoint, ID. This year I'm in New Hazelton, BC. I've already done laundry, talked with Matthew and John, and gotten Chiese takeout for dinner.
Tuesday, August 16, 2022 -- 3684 km cum - 108 km/day
Wednesday, August 17, 2022 -- 3812 km cum - 128 km/day
I spent Tuesday night with WarmShower host Judy and her family, and thus I had no time to make an entry. This was my first WS night of the summer. Tuesday's km/day was actually only about 91 km; the 108 listed above includes 17 km of my fun ride to/from Old Hazelton on Sunday. My WS night with Judy's family was relaxing and restful.
Today's distance was actually only about 122 km. I'm not sure where the extra 6 km came from. Tonight I'm at a very nice but not that expensive B&B in Burns Lake.
Rt. 26 -- aka the Yellowhead Highway -- is my least favorite road this summer. Traffic is heavy, and the shoulder is deficient at best. It's not a fun road to ride on.
Thursday, August 18, 2022 -- 3884 km cum - 72 km/day
This was a short day by design to the *free* municipal campground in Fraser Lake. I had dinner at a Mexican restaurant with Stephanie, a young woman from Montpelier, VT, who is doing an eight month driving/camping trip all over North America.
Friday, August 19, 2022 -- 3955 km cum - 71 km/day
A second easy 45-mile day to Vanderhoof, "the geographic center of BC," where I am spending a WS night in Jolinka and John's guest cabin.
It was two months ago today that I set out from Deadhorse. My NorthStar adventure has miles yet to go, but it is nearer its end than its start.
Saturday, August 20, 2022 -- 4063 km cum - 108 km/day
Back to a "normal" day, some 68 miles from Judy and John's to the Econo Lodge in Prince George, my first actual city since Whitehorse. I'll take a rest/laundry day here tomorrow.
I am so glad I stayed with Jolinka and John last night. We had a long breakfast together this morning on their back porch. Retired, they have lived internationally in Africa and, of all places, in Hamden, CT. Like Judy a couple days earlier, they are of Dutch extraction.
Monday, August 22, 2022 -- 4185 km cum - 122 km/day
This was an excellent 76-mile day from Prince George to the Slim Creek rest area where I am camped with Becca and Rob, two British E-W cross-country bike-packers. They started from Cape Breton Island.
Tuesday, August 23, 2022 -- 4275 km cum - 90 km/day
I was within a kilometer of the McBride RV Park and Campground when I saw a Travelodge. It was nearly 6 p.m.. I caved for a motel night. I expect it may my last motel night for some time.
My caving was due in part to my latest start yet, nearly noon, and significant climbs as I approach the Canadian Rockies.
My late start, in turn, was due to the best camping morning I have had this summer, Ian, our neighbor in a camping van, made breakfast for Becca, Rob, and me. What a morning delight to have a breakfast of french toast, bacon, and real maple syrup! Also with us was another bike-packer -- also an Ian -- who had arrived late in the evening. (He is riding Florida to Deadhorse.) In short, it was a l-o-n-g morning in the best sense of good food, good conversations, and heartfelt goodbyes with best wishes.
Wednesday, August 24, 2022 -- 4356 km cum - 81 km/day
Today's was a lovely 50-mile ride that finds me at the Mt. Robson Meadows campground. For once I had a good early start before 9 a.m.. I arrived at the campground by 3 p.m. even with time out for photos and a walk to falls where I actually saw salmon jumping upstream. I'm showered (!) and warming dinner, and it's only 6 p.m.
BTW and FWIW, this BC campground is not cheap: $28 fixed price even for a bike-packer like me. It does, however, have potable water and showers. Civilization!
Thursday, August 25, 2022 -- 4445 km cum - 89 km/day
Arrived Jasper, AB, and entered MDT late this afternoon after a leisurely morning at the Mt. Robson campground and an easier ride than I expected over Yellowhead Pass. Jasper is a resort town, and I consider myself lucky to have gotten bed K8 at the Jasper Downtown Hostel for three nights. I'll have two full days in this resort town. Imagine that!
Two young-ish bike-packing guys passed me at a good clip after I crossed into AB. I was going to let it pass as I watched them pull further and further ahead. But then I thought, "I wonder?" I caught up with and rode with them the rest of the way into Jasper. Seems this 68-year-old grandmother can keep up with young guys from Montreal after all.
Saturday, August 27, 2022 -- 4445 km cum - 0 km/day
I'm sitting in the Bears Paw Cafe with coffee and a bagel on this, my second day off. I'm looking out at the mountains shrouded in mist. Rain moved through overnight, and it has turned cooler. This is not a day for shorts. As in Astana, fall in Jasper reminds one of its imminence by mid-August.
I'm enjoying my days off by doing the necessary: resting and doing laundry. My greatest physical activity has been some strolls around town. Jasper is situated in a bowl and is surrounded by mountains. It's "Sound of Music" beautiful here.
Alina, my waitress at breakfast yesterday morning, is an evacuee from Ukraine. Canada seems to be doing so much more than the U.S. to aid Ukrainian refugees.
Tomorrow I start down the Ice Fields Highway. I estimate about 700 km (~400 miles) to go. There are challenges to come in the remaining days, but the end of this summer's journey is approaching.
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